The fish we don’t eat

It’s hard to imagine just how many edible fish there are until you see them arrayed in their multicolored, multi-finned glory. Lobster Place, a bustling seafood shop in the center of New York’s Chelsea Market, is a good place to start. The store’s open display cases hold live sea urchins that respond to the touch; fat, juicy chunks of Hawaiian Wahoo; gigantic, whole tilefish that stare, glassy-eyed at the curious consumer; and other offerings that, were they not labeled, you’d need a degree in marine biology to recognize.

Some, like baby squid and octopi, razor clams, and fillets of specialty catch that retail for upward of $25 per pound, might intimidate the standard home chef in search of something to serve for dinner. This is intentional. Chelsea market draws tourists, upper-class gourmands and Food Network fans in search of weird fish that’s hard to find anywhere else.

Other offerings, though, are just … different. There’s no reason to believe most of the fillets priced by the pound are less tasty or harder to cook than typical supermarket fare. Yet Davis Herron, Lobster Place’s director, says standard fillets of salmon, tuna, cod and halibut are still the specialty market’s biggest sellers.

It’s no coincidence that the most endangered fish are also staples of the American diet. When we talk about overfishing, we’re referring to individual species that consumers — and the market – latch on to, often to the exclusion of other options. As much as we extoll the virtue of seafood, our enthusiasm for those select few suggests, we’re really not all that comfortable with it.

“There’s a fear of seafood,” said Rick Moonen, a renowned seafood chef who was one of the first to advocate sustainable fishing. “For some reason, people get nervous.” Fish are complicated, expensive and easy to overcook. They’re laced with small, sharp bones ready to choke the incautious diner. They smell. The limited number of species we stick to aren’t exceptions, but at least they’re familiar. Yet by refusing to broaden our options, we’re threatening to eat them out of existence.

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The Santa Monica Bay is waking up after a very slow summer surface bite.

The Santa Monica Bay is waking up after a very slow summer surface bite.

There has been a conspicuous lack of bass and barracuda leaving most anglers with rockfish as the only viable option. That may all be changing.

Copious amounts of market squid have taken up residence off Hermosa Beach and, as we all learned in our high school biology class, the big ones do come out to eat the little ones.

Halibut, white seabass and some fat sand and calico bass are starting to bite, as well as a few yellowtail. Squid is an essential part of the food chain and acts as a magnet to a variety of gamefish.

Gary La Croix from the sportfishing vessel Highliner, out of Redondo Sportfishing, has had several days of good white seabass fishing this week. “This bite is really turning around,” said La Croix. It’s looking better and better all the time.”

Good Captains like La Croix use a variety of tools and sources to find fish. Sonar, sea surface temperature gages, radar and radios are just a fraction of what good skippers use to locate their prey. But who would have ever thought that you could add paddle boarders to that list.

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